Sunday, July 22, 2018

Mozza Review

by Viento Nieto (writer), Los Angeles/South Pasadena, February 27, 2007


What do you get when you take Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and throw in a casual, hip location, accessible prices, not too much fluff, and just enough soul? One of the hottest tables in town.

Mozza is like no other pizza joint this city, or this reviewer, has enjoyed to this point. I can only speculate, having never been to Italy, but this is how I would expect true Italian pizza was intended to be: an incredibly thin and crispy wood-fired crust with an imaginative variety of bold (yet simple) combinations of toppings. The flavors are intensely satisfying and the texture is superb. Make no mistake, the buzz about this place will bring the crowds; the pizza will bring them back.

It is not just the pizza at Mozza that stands out, I can assure you. There is a selection of authentic Italian appetizers, salads, cured meats, bruschetta, panini, and a single daily entree for each day of the week. The one antipasti I tried on my visit was lamb stracotto with polenta, and it was very, very good. A miniature casserole dish was laid in with a delicate creamy polenta accented by a bit of pulled roasted lamb baked on to the center. This dish had a subtle richness a little like a savory crème brulee.

The pizzas we tried were one with fungi misti,fontina,taleggio, and
thyme (fried or sautéed mushrooms, a blend of two cheeses and thyme), and one with goat cheese, leeks, roasted garlic and bacon. Both were outstanding.
The wine list is strictly Italian, but amazingly everything on it is 50
bucks or less. I would suggest doing some quick internet research on Italian
wine before going, or you’re at the mercy of your server if you’re like me.
They do have several wines by the glass; we tried two reds at random, and
liked both.

At meal’s end we could not resist dessert, so I tried a Meyer
lemon gelato pie that was terrific, and my companion selected an espresso
sundae that a true coffee connoisseur could not pass up. Overall I have to say
this place is by far worthy of the buzz it's getting, and I would highly
recommend making the effort to get there...


About the Writer

Viento Nieto is a writer for BrooWaha. For more information, visit the writer's website.
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2 comments on Mozza Review

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By Steven Lane on February 27, 2007 at 11:54 pm
sounds great, I love the thin crusty skins.
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By Miss Sam on June 16, 2007 at 01:49 pm
I love Pizzeria Mozza. I have been there -- it's great! I love the sausage pizza. They also have a really cute private dining room with a long wooden table... I would love to plan a private dinner with a group of friends one day :)
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